Sidi Bou Said Luxury Hotels in Tunisia's Blue-and-White Village

Perched on the cliffs of Cap Carthage, Sidi Bou Said has drawn artists and writers for a century, from Paul Klee to André Gide. Its rule of white walls and blue shutters, wrought-iron window grilles and studded doors, all framed by bougainvillea and jasmine, makes every lane a picture. Below, the marina and the sea; along the ridge, the elegant suburbs of La Marsa and Carthage.

It is the most romantic base for exploring Tunis and Carthage, and a highlight of any Tunisia vacation. Come in the early morning or evening, when the day visitors have gone and the village belongs to its residents.

Fly to Tunis-Carthage with one stop from the US via Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Istanbul or the Gulf; the village is 20 minutes away by car. The TGM light railway also links it with central Tunis, La Marsa and Carthage. For private aviation, see arriving privately.

Carthage and La Marsa are next door; Tunis and its medina are 20 minutes away. Hammamet's beaches lie about an hour south, and the island resorts of Djerba are a short flight.

Tunisia uses the dinar, which cannot be taken out of the country, so exchange only what you need and keep receipts. Cards are accepted in leading hotels and restaurants; carry cash for souks, taxis and tips, with about 10 percent customary in restaurants. Dress is relaxed at resorts, but cover shoulders and knees in the medinas and at religious sites. During Ramadan, eat and drink discreetly in public by day. Arabic and French are spoken everywhere, English in the best hotels. Sockets take European two-pin plugs (230V). Sidi Bou Said's lanes are steep and cobbled, so wear comfortable shoes and visit early to enjoy the village before day visitors arrive.