Tangier Luxury Hotels, the Kasbah and the Strait of Gibraltar

For much of the 20th century Tangier was an international zone, and it drew Matisse, Paul Bowles, the Beat writers and fashion figures who left behind a legend of villas, cafés and grand hotels. Today the white city has been polished: a restored Kasbah and medina, a new marina and promenade, and a sweep of sea-view hotels along the bay.

It is the northern gateway on a Morocco luxury vacation, the start of the Al Boraq high-speed line to Rabat and Casablanca, and a short hop from Spain. The light, the sea and the Mediterranean mood set it apart from the rest of the country.

From the US, fly Royal Air Maroc nonstop to Casablanca and take the Al Boraq high-speed train, Africa's first, which reaches Tangier in about two hours; see our guide to trains. Ibn Battouta airport has flights from European capitals and welcomes private aircraft; see arriving privately. Fast ferries cross from Tarifa in Spain in about an hour.

The blue-washed mountain town of Chefchaouen is about two and a half hours away; the whitewashed seaside town of Asilah, with its summer arts festival, is 45 minutes south. Tetouan's UNESCO-listed medina and the beaches of the Mediterranean coast are within an hour. Continue by train to Rabat, or by car to Fes.

Morocco uses the dirham, and cards are accepted in the best hotels, restaurants and boutiques, but carry cash for souks, guides and tips; about 10 percent is customary in restaurants. Light, modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is respectful away from the pool. Friday is the main prayer day, while offices and shops follow a Saturday and Sunday weekend. During Ramadan, eat and drink discreetly in public by day; hotel restaurants stay open. French and Arabic are widely spoken, and English is common in luxury hotels. Morocco's power sockets take European two-pin plugs (220V). In Tangier, Spanish is also widely understood, a legacy of the city's ties across the strait.