Tunis Travel: The Medina, Carthage and the Best Hotels

Tunis is a compact capital where you can wander a medieval souk in the morning, stand among the ruins of Carthage at lunch and watch the sun set over the Gulf of Tunis from a cliff-top café in Sidi Bou Said. The medina, built around the Zitouna Mosque, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site of covered souks, palaces and doorways painted in blue and yellow.

Carthage, founded by the Phoenicians and later rebuilt by Rome, is also a UNESCO site, and the Bardo National Museum holds one of the world's greatest collections of Roman mosaics. Together they make Tunis the cultural anchor of any Tunisia travel guide itinerary.

There are no nonstop flights from the US to Tunisia. Easy one-stop connections run through Paris, Rome, Frankfurt and Istanbul, or through Doha, Dubai or Abu Dhabi; travel time from the US East Coast is typically 11 to 14 hours. Tunisair links Tunis with many European cities. Tunis-Carthage airport is close to the city and handles private aircraft; see arriving privately.

The Roman city of Dougga, perhaps North Africa's best preserved, is about two hours west. Hammamet's beaches and the Cap Bon vineyards are about an hour away, and Kairouan, the holy city with its Great Mosque, is two hours south. Fly or drive south to Djerba for island resorts.

Tunisia uses the dinar, which cannot be taken out of the country, so exchange only what you need and keep receipts. Cards are accepted in leading hotels and restaurants; carry cash for souks, taxis and tips, with about 10 percent customary in restaurants. Dress is relaxed at resorts, but cover shoulders and knees in the medinas and at religious sites. During Ramadan, eat and drink discreetly in public by day. Arabic and French are spoken everywhere, English in the best hotels. Sockets take European two-pin plugs (230V).