AlUla in Winter: Desert Nights and Luxury Resorts

The resorts in AlUla are few, and each is distinctive. Banyan Tree AlUla (five stars) sits in the Ashar Valley, its tented villas tucked against sandstone walls, each with a private pool and a view that changes color by the hour. Nearby, Our Habitas AlUla (five stars) is more relaxed, with low wooden villas, yoga at sunrise and a social firepit after dark. In the old town, Dar Tantora The House Hotel (five stars) restores a cluster of mud-brick houses, lit at night by candles and lanterns, a quiet and beautiful way to feel the history of the place.

More is coming. Several major hotel names have announced resorts in the valley, and we will add each one when it opens; for now we list them as To be confirmed. For the wider picture, including tented camps in other deserts, see luxury desert camps and lodges.

AlUla's modern landmark is Maraya, a concert hall clad entirely in mirrors, set in a canyon so that it seems to disappear into the rocks around it. It hosts concerts and events through the winter season, and its rooftop restaurant is one of the most memorable tables in the Kingdom; check the program before you go.

At sunset everyone gravitates to Elephant Rock, a towering formation shaped by wind into the unmistakable form of an elephant, with low seating and fire pits arranged around its base. We preferred to arrive a little early and watch the colors change in near silence. Another evening we walked the lanes of AlUla Old Town, with its hundreds of mud-brick houses, small cafes and craft shops, and climbed to the fort above it for the view across the palms.

Other days took us to Dadan, the ancient capital of the Dadanite and Lihyanite kingdoms, and to Jabal Ikmah, an open-air library of inscriptions on the canyon walls. One morning we floated over the valley in a hot-air balloon, which we would recommend to anyone with a head for heights.

US citizens can obtain a Saudi tourist eVisa online, and the Saudi Arabia travel guide explains entry, dress and customs. Dress is relaxed but modest; covering shoulders and knees is courteous, and comfortable walking shoes are essential. AlUla is dry, with no alcohol served. Most visitors combine it with Riyadh and the Red Sea resorts; our Saudi itinerary shows how.

We left AlUla convinced it will be one of the most talked-about destinations of the decade. For the vision behind it, read Saudi Vision 2030 and its giga-projects.